Tunisia & the Sands of TimeTunisia & the Sands of Time

This morning, we’ll hurtle back in time a few thousand years as we explore the relics of Carthage, once the most powerful trading city in the Western Mediterranean. Dating back to the ninth century BC, the city was a longstanding foe to the Romans and the birthplace of the formidable warlord Hannibal, who allegedly marched his massive army complete with war elephants through the Alps to invade Rome. Step by step, we’ll trace the history of the ancient city from the enormous Roman-era cisterns of La Malga to enigmatic Carthaginian sites of sacrifice. In the afternoon, we’ll head to a favorite local spot: the beachside town of La Goulette, where we’ll slurp down fresh fish and grilled seafood, and look out over the shimmering Mediterranean. Once we get back to Tunis, take some time to explore the bustling markets and Brutalist architecture of the city before dinner.

After an early breakfast, we’ll hit the road and make our first stop in Sousse, a busy port city that lies on the Gulf of Hammamet. We'll visit the Sousse Archaeological Museum located within the walls of a historic kasbah with panoramic views over the city. The museum houses one of the world's greatest collections of Roman mosaics and we will have time for self-exploration of the museum in addition to learning more about the mosaics from our trip leader. We’ll wander through Sousse's narrow, millennia-old streets before taking a break for lunch. This afternoon we continue on to Kairouan, one of the holy cities of Islam and an important pilgrimage site. We spend some time exploring Kairouan's fantastic medina on a guided walk and meeting the craftspeople at work before having a relaxing evening at our comfortable hotel.

Today we’ll visit the Grand Mosque, a spectacular structure complete with an elaborate mihrab and intricately carved columns, and search for what’s believed to be the oldest surviving minbar in the world. We continue on to the Aghlabid Basins, giant hydraulic structures erected in the ninth century that provided water for the people of Kairouan for over a millennium. Later, we’ll visit a few lesser-known spots, such as the alleged burial site of Muhammad’s barber. After lunch, the remainder of the afternoon is free for further exploration of the alleys and hidden gems of the Kairouan Medina or relaxation at the hotel.

This morning we drive to El Jem, a massive, Roman-era colosseum that hosted gladiatorial battles as early as the third century. With an estimated capacity of 35,000, it’s one of the largest Roman amphitheaters in the world. After learning about these architectural feats, we’ll catch a ferry to Djerba, also known as “the Island of Dreams.” With a rich history and renowned contemporary art scene, the island is home to a vibrant, longstanding Jewish community—and one of the oldest synagogues in Africa—as well as an open-air art museum, where artists from all around the world have painted mythical beasts, Arabic calligraphy graffiti, and more onto city walls and rooftops.

We’ll spend the morning exploring Djerba, visiting the El Ghriba Synagogue before delving into the medina on foot and seeing the larger-than-life Djerbahood murals splashed across city walls. Keep an eye out for the illegally-placed small mosaics around the island, installed by a French artist known as “Invader”. The designs and imagery are a nod to the local history with a modern twist and are so well-received by locals and visitors that the local authorities have turned a blind eye to what is, technically, vandalism. For lunch, we’ll head to the medina, where fishermen string up fresh fish to display their catch. After selecting what we need, we’ll ask a local restaurant to grill up our fish. Once we’re satiated, we’ll explore an abandoned beach resort and learn about the Jasmine Revolution, a 2011 civil protest against decades of corruption that sparked the Arab Spring. Then it’s time for our journey into the Sahara. We’ll cross the first of the desert’s massive salt lakes before arriving at our destination, a stone house at the base of mountains in Tataouine. After a long day full of adventure, we’ll fire up the grill for BBQ by the pool before calling it a night.

Today we’ll be exploring Tataouine from various vantage points, from its hilltop caves to its underground dugouts—and even taking an intergalactic perspective. Made famous by its Star Wars namesake, Tatooine, the town still hosts a smattering of otherworldly relics from the film set. Whether you’re a Star Wars fan or not, you’ll likely discover this area to be one of the most visually stunning places you’ve ever seen. We’ll share a traditional Berber meal with a few friends, and drop into a cave for a cup of tea. Then, we’ll head to Chenini, an ancient Berber village tucked into the cliffs, which served as inspiration for the name of a moon orbiting Luke Skywalker’s home planet. After a full day of exploring, we’ll return to our hotel and rest up before tomorrow’s adventure into the desert.

We’ll set out early this morning, driving up into the mountains, where we’ll stop for a coffee break with panoramic views. We’ll pass innumerable natural wonders, including a hot-water desert spring, often thronged by thirsty camels. Once we reach the desert, we’ll switch over to all-terrain vehicles and journey 60 miles from the nearest human settlement until we reach our campsite. We’ll set up camp, enjoy a traditional Berber dinner by the campfire, and, once the sun sets, turn our gaze to the sky. With the closest source of electricity about a two-hour drive from our camp, we’ll enjoy the glittering mosaic of stars and planets in the night sky with unparalleled lucidity. Tonight we’ll have comfortable tents to sleep in, though you’re also welcome to bring a blanket outside and drift off underneath the stars.

After breakfast in the desert, we’ll climb back into our jeeps to return to the settlement where we left our minibus. Trading vehicles, we'll then cross the vast, multicolored Chott el Djerid salt lake. Appearing in shades of green, red, and white, the (mostly dry) lake will give us lots to look at as we drive through it. We’ll pause in the middle, getting out to examine its brilliant pink hue before continuing on to Douz. We’ll stop here, just a stone’s throw from the Algerian border, to break for lunch and stretch our legs. Later, we’ll visit Les Refroidisseurs d’Eau, a gargantuan, concrete facility built to process, cool, and store the hot water that bubbles up from beneath the desert sand. A hidden gem not often frequented by outsiders, it’s the perfect place to enjoy a free, hot, mineral water shower. Our final destination for the day will be Tozeur, a tropical oasis deep in the desert, where we’ll taste the city’s world-renowned lamb before retiring to our comfortable hotel.

We’ll start the day off-roading and, with the help of our trusty (four-wheel-drive) steeds, we’ll cruise back across the Saharan sands, passing oases and bountiful date farms as we go. Our first stop is a beautiful canyon that is only accessible on foot via an easy hike. Back in the vehicles and continuing on our way, we’ll stop at another abandoned Star Wars film set, the town of Mos Espa. Though the set is slowly being overtaken by sand, you can still spot “Moisture Vaporators,” among other space structures, lining the streets. We’ll break for lunch in Tozeur, and check out the local medina and souk. For those interested, there’s an optional excursion to yet another Star Wars relic—the Lars Homestead, home to Luke Skywalker, himself!

This morning we’ll head north along the Algerian border, from Tozeur to the ancient city of Sbeitla. Also known as “Sufetula,” Sbeitla is believed to have been the point of entry for the Islamic conquest of Africa. We’ll explore local Roman ruins and sample some wild boar, a contemporary delicacy with ancient roots. After a day of walking, exploring, and feasting, enjoy some rest before our final full day together.

Dougga is the best-preserved Roman town in North Africa, and arguably anywhere on the planet. An archaeologist’s paradise, its ancient temples, bathhouses, mosaics, and original Roman streets still stand as if frozen in time. We’ll aim to visit its massive theater, chariot racing arena, and the remains of the ancient temple known as the Capitol. Then, we’ll embark upon the final leg of our overland journey, looping back to Tunis. Upon returning to the capital, we’ll celebrate our time together with a farewell dinner.

After a final breakfast together, head to the airport and depart for home or your next destination. Until the next adventure!