Oaxaca: Tastes of Past & PresentOaxaca: Tastes of Past & Present

Today begins with breakfast at La Florecita, a popular market stand, where we'll sample traditional Oaxacan home-cooked comfort food. Then it’s off to some of the surrounding villages to learn about (and shop for) local arts and crafts. We’ll visit an alebrije workshop in San Martín Tilcajete, where a seasoned artisan will walk us through the process and tradition of crafting these whimsical wooden figurines. Then we’ll head to Santo Tomás Jalieza, where we’ll visit a family of expert women weavers who have been using backstrap looms for generations. We’ll drive to San Bartolo Coyotepec to learn about the unique black pottery from this region that’s renowned across the globe, then stop at Cuilapan de Guerrero to visit Santiago Apóstol, a breathtaking former monastery built in the 16th century, featuring an open-air, roofless basilica. Once we’re back in Oaxaca City, we’ll head to one of the city’s most important markets: the Benito Juárez market. Weaving through the stands—gaining an understanding of local ingredients as we go—we’ll make our way toward the smoke hall for a lunch of freshly grilled meats. Satiated, and perhaps a little sleepy, you’ll have the chance to rest after lunch. Tonight will be yours to explore the city's rich culinary landscape at your own pace.

We’ll kick off the day with an outdoor breakfast tucked away in a colonial courtyard. Then, it’s off to a mezcal palenque, or distillery, where we’ll trace the history and tradition of mezcal making—meeting local producers, touring an agave nursery, and exploring the palenque that produces small-batch, artisanal mezcal. Our tour wouldn’t be complete without a mezcal tasting and workshop on-site—and if you enjoy this smokey spirit, you’ll have the chance to buy it directly from the producers. Before heading back to town, we’ll stop for lunch at the Ocotlán market, where hand-churned ice cream known as nieve, frothy tejate, and more abound. Back in Oaxaca City, take some time to rest, shop, or wander on your own. We’ll regroup tonight in the courtyard of our hotel, where we’ll tuck into traditional Oaxacan tamales from your guides’ favorite street cart.

Today is all about getting to know traditional Mexican and Oaxacan ingredients up close and beginning to think about how you can incorporate them into your own cooking. We’ll begin with a crash course in corn, one of the pillars of Mexican food, at a casual restaurant called Itanoní, then head to a residential market to pick up ingredients for this afternoon’s culinary workshop. Led by James Beard-nominated chef Iliana de la Vega, our lesson will take place in an open, semi-outdoor kitchen in the private home of a local artist. We’ll whip up an exquisite lunch and learn how to craft Oaxaca’s two most important cheeses: queso fresco and quesillo. We’ll have the opportunity to watch a demo led by Rosa María, a seasoned cheesemaker whose family has been making artisanal cheese for generations. After lunch, take the rest of the afternoon to explore, rest, and digest on your own. Once again, we’ll reconvene this evening for a memorable dinner featuring a savory suckling pig tacos on the terrace of Pitiona, which offers sweeping views of the city below. After dinner, enjoy some well-earned rest or head out into the city to explore local nightlife on your own.

Today begins with breakfast at El Milenario, a beloved haunt in Santa María del Tule—home to the Árbol del Tule, the widest tree on Earth. After a hearty meal of traditional chilaquiles or enfrijoladas, we’ll visit the massive and wonderfully stout Tule tree. We’ll hit the road again after lunch, this time heading to the village of Tlacolula, famous for its Sunday market. Each week, vendors from across the state flock to Tlacolula, selling everything from livestock and fresh produce to bootlegged DVDs. Later in the afternoon, we’ll visit Teotitlán del Valle, a picturesque town renowned for its woven handicrafts. We’ll sit down with a local artisan who will give us a demo in rug weaving and introduce us to traditional techniques and natural dyes. We'll later head to the home of traditional cook Reyna Mendoza, who will prepare a spectacular bounty of Zapotec food for lunch. Upon returning to the city, feel free to relax after a long day of learning and eating, enjoy some mezcal cocktails while lounging on a terrace somewhere downtown, and have dinner at your leisure—if you’re still hungry, that is.

After a leisurely morning and breakfast on your own, meet up with the group for a short drive to Monte Albán, the largest Zapotec archaeological site in Oaxaca and home to one of the oldest cities of Mesoamerica. With the guidance of a local expert, we’ll explore Monte Albán, tracing the city’s history back to ancient times and learning about the importance of Zapotec culture in the region. For lunch, we’ll head to the private home of Deyanira Aquino, a seasoned chef from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, who will prepare a variety of dishes from his birthplace. You’ll find that food from the Isthmus is distinct from that of the Central Valley, and uses ingredients not typically used in dishes from other regions of Oaxaca. After lunch, spend some time relaxing or exploring on your own before our final dinner tonight. We’ll head to Criollo, the brainchild and passion project of chefs Luis Arellano and Enrique Olvera, showcasing Oaxaca’s rich gastronomic traditions in a stunning, modern space.

After a full week of munching our way through Oaxaca, it’s time to slip that bottle of mezcal into your suitcase and head home. You can depart for the airport early this morning or enjoy one final breakfast before heading out.