Naples Nightlife

Found on a little street buzzing with a clutch of cool locales, this stylish bar is great for a pre-dinner aperitivo accompanied by a plentiful (and delicious) buffet, or a pre-club cocktail. Easy jams from the DJ and low lighting provide a laidback atmosphere, attracting a trendy clientele looking to conspire over fine liquors in a corner. Opened in 2002, the bar takes its name from the antique shop that previously inhabited this spot for 40 years.

The bottle-lined brick walls of Enoteca Belladonna boast some of Campania’s finest local wines. That may be why crowds of wine-glass wielding Neapolitans spill out of the tiny premises into the cobbled streets during the summer. Family-run, the bar was appropriately converted from an old cellar in the 1960s. Plates of charcuterie (cold cuts of meat) and toasted crostini(toasted ciabatta) topped with marinated aubergines and peppers make a fine match for the wine.

Located at the edge of grand Piazza del Plebiscito, this is Naples’ most venerable café. Its art nouveau interior is ornately decorated, the glowing wooden bar stretching from one end to the other. Self-conscious patrons sip coffee and cocktails, attended by uniformed waiters. A cocktail or Prosecco here, prior to an evening performance at the Teatro San Carlo, is a local ritual.

A chameleon café, bookshop, publishing house and bar, Intra Moenia is the place to come for a long afternoon coffee or low-key evenings of good wine and good conversation. Located on Piazza Bellini, one of the most attractive piazzas in the historic centre, it has a refined cultural atmosphere. Many people simply grab a drink and sit out on the piazza on hot summer evenings.

By day, Nea is an art gallery selling some fine local and national work, plus a pleasant café serving terrific coffee. A great meeting place for creative types, it opens into an 18th century terrace overlooking the old university. In the evening though, artistic admirers come and sip fine wines whilst admiring the collections as the odd DJ pops by to spin wax in the larger galleries.

For a sample of the Neapolitan summer club scene you can’t do much better than L’Arenile. Its fabulous wooden-decked cabana-style interior and terrace are draped with gossamer curtains and populated by Campari-sipping socialites. Pretentious it may be, but the romantic atmosphere and beachside views are hard to beat. The Tuesday night jam session hosts top names from the Neapolitan music scene. L’Arenile di Bagnoliis only open in the summer from April to September.

A current favourite with local music hounds, Goodfellas has a down-to-earth vibe and an excellent programme of events. Settle down in a corner of the cosy, barrel-vaulted rooms for an evening of rhythm and blues, rock or jazz. Beers here are as varied as the line-up too, with top brews from around the world making their way to the taps of this popular drinking den.

Possibly the best jazz club in Naples, New Around Midnight is the city’s oldest and most famous jazz den. It recently been taken over by new management, but has still retained its post as a tiny, atmospheric place. Major gigs are generally held on Friday and Saturday, and it’s best to book ahead on these nights if you want to get a table and food as well. The bands are typically homegrown but there’s the occasional blues performance every now and again as well.

Naples classical music association, Associazione Scarlatti, put on a full calendar of events in different locations across the city. From intimate chamber music concerts to large shows featuring fully-fledged orchestras, the programme mixes up local and international talent. Some of the venues, such as the Castel Sant’Elmo, are spectacular.

The Cappella della Pietà de' Turchini, a musical group keen on preserving and performing local music from the baroque era, do so beautifully in the all important Santa Caterina a Siena, a stunning baroque church. Performances in this unbeatable setting take place between October and May with a focus on opera and orchestral shows. The preference here is for southern and Neapolitan music, so it’s a real treat for those visiting the city.

The most beautiful of Naples’ many theatres is undoubtedly Teatro Bellini, which is located in the city centre. It opened in 1864 and has been damaged both by fires and earthquakes over the years, but it is still going strong. The programme consists mostly of theatrical productions such as the Divine Comedy and musical theatre productions.