The Kingdoms of Andalusia: Secret Gardens and Haunted PalacesThe Kingdoms of Andalusia: Secret Gardens and Haunted Palaces

We’ll begin the day surveying the city from atop the largest Gothic cathedral in the world, Catedral de Sevilla. Erected on the former site of Sevilla’s main mosque, it contains a Moorish-style bell tower and entranceway, the only remaining architectural relics that hint at the cathedral’s Islamic foundations. During our rooftop tour, we’ll learn about both the cathedral and the fascinating characters involved in its century-long building process. Later, we’ll explore the monastery of San Leandro, where we can sample handmade yemas de San Leandro, traditional pastries made from egg yolk, lemon juice, and sugar, crafted by resident nuns. In the evening, we’ll visit Casa de Pilatos, once home to the dukes of Medinaceli. The spectacular, 15th-century palace still boasts a dazzling array of colorful, tin-glazed ceramic tiles called azulejos. 

We’ll kick off our day with a private tour through the collections of the General Archive of the Indies, a 16th-century library chronicling the history of Spain’s overseas empire in the Americas and the Philippines. From there, we’ll pay a visit to the Hospital de la Caridad, where we’ll learn about life in the time of the Black Death and have the chance to pore over a vast collection of macabre frescoes. After a lavish lunch, the rest of the afternoon is yours to rest under the sun, stroll through the lush gardens and fountains of Parque María Luisa, or admire the ornate azulejos that adorn the Plaza de España. We’ll regroup before our after-hours visit to the enchanting Alcázar de Sevilla, one of the oldest palaces still in use today. You’ll have the chance to roam the gardens, sit by the sputtering fountains, and shamelessly practice your best regal gait up and down the vast corridors, as tonight, we’ll have the palace all to ourselves.

Córdoba, once the cultural and economic epicenter of Al-Andalus, is known for its dazzling architectural elements—and perhaps most importantly, its patios. Tucked away inside the city’s oldest homes, you’ll find colorful patios teeming with blossoms. Initially an architectural feature intended to keep residents cool during stifling Córdoba summers, these plant-packed patios have since become a source of pride and creative flair for the city. Today will be a relaxed one; after the morning drive from Sevilla (two hours by private bus), we’ll arrive in Córdoba for lunch and a short visit to the Córdoba Synagogue. The afternoon activities will depend on the time of year (see below). In the evening, feel free to relax at a cafe, do some shopping, or investigate the food scene.

From May 3–16, 2021, Córdoba will be hosting its annual Festival of the Patios, a brief period in the spring when many Córdobans open their doors to the public to display centuries-old courtyards filled with vibrant flowers. The afternoon will be yours to explore the stunning, secret gardens on display, admiring their colorful contents and chatting with local patio owners. In September, we'll be making visits to a few of the best private patios, as well as a visit to the Caliphal Baths, a hammam constructed in the 10th century.

If there’s one structure that embodies the tidal shifts in Andalusia’s religious history, it’s the Mezquita-Catedral, Córdoba’s spectacular Mosque-Cathedral. Historians believe the structure was initially constructed as a temple, later transformed into a church, then reconstructed as a mosque—only to be converted to a church after it was wrangled from Moorish rule during the Reconquista. You’ll spot the structure’s religious multiplicities in the architecture itself, from its vibrant, striped arches to its gilded nave, and the push and pull of Christian versus Muslim iconography, the accentuation of people versus patterns. After a leisurely lunch and some free time in the afternoon, we’ll reassemble for a spectacular Córdoba sendoff: a private visit at the Palace of Viana. Don’t be fooled; its unassuming white walls give way to 12 sprawling courtyards, an extravagant palace, and an extraordinary collection of art.

This morning, we’ll journey to the last Andalusian kingdom to fall during the Reconquista: Granada. After a two-hour transfer, we’ll enjoy our first views of the Alhambra over lunch. In the afternoon, we’ll visit the Granada Cathedral, a colossal Renaissance structure that took 180 years and at least five architects to build, and the Madraza de Granada, a prestigious Islamic university erected in the 14th century.  In the afternoon we'll visit the home of 20th-century painter José María Rodríguez Acosta. During our visit, we’ll browse his private library, peruse his collection of art, and explore the secret underground corridors that once connected the garden to the Alhambra Palace itself.

A stunning, centuries-old structure, the Alhambra consists of a citadel, three original palaces, and a separate recreational estate. It's an architectural marvel in which majesty, military utility, and mysticism collide. Originally constructed under the Nasrid empire, the property was repurposed in the late 15th century as the royal court for King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella. On a guided tour of the expansive complex, we’ll explore hidden symbolism related to occultism and discover secret signs and symbols of alchemy and Cabala. We’ll adjourn in the early afternoon, and the rest of the day is yours to spend strolling through the exquisite Generalife garden, relaxing in Hammam baths, or meandering through the city’s eclectic marketplace, Alcaicería. For our last hurrah, we’ll celebrate with a final feast followed by a flamenco show, and raise a glass to a wonderful week together.

After a week of wandering through abandoned palaces, converted mosques, forgotten temples, Gothic cathedrals, and secret patio gardens, we’ll say our goodbyes. From Granada, depart for flights or trains home, or head to your next destination. Note that Granada has various flight and train options to Madrid, Barcelona, and other transport hubs in Spain.